By Jane Valencia
Fernhorn Bakery’s story interweaves with that of Island resilience. In our conversation with owners Thomas Vroom and Jordan Ashley Beck, we chat about Vashon-grown grains.
Did you know that it’s possible to grow wheat on Vashon? Several Islanders are growing wheat already, and work is underway to support Island grain-growing.
In 2022, Thomas Vroom, Fernhorn Bakery baker and co-owner, got together with Eric Steffens, Leslie Mackie, and Dan Carlson to discuss ways to get a processing infrastructure established for grain-growing on Vashon. Dan Carlson wrote a grant proposal to King Conservation District (KCD) to fund the purchase of a granite stone mill and seed cleaner. The grant was submitted through the Vashon Island Growers Association (VIGA) and awarded in the beginning of 2023. The grant was used to purchase a 27” granite stonemill and an industrial style seed cleaner. Regarding the latter, while the seed cleaner has screens for cleaning wheat, other screens can be purchased to clean other-sized seeds.
Thomas says, “Paco Joyce has a combine and harvests for the wheat growers. We are working on getting a location set up for milling, which is WSDA licensed, and for the cleaning of the grain. Once we are set up and licensed, we will be able to mill flour for the various people who have grown a quantity of grain.”
One aspect of the grant is that when a grower runs seed or grain through the mill, 10% is to be donated to the food bank. The goal is to provide local wheat across the spectrum of incomes and people.
“It is a long process,” says Thomas. “You get two chances a year to plant, and depending on what the weather’s like, this is what decides what our harvests will be. Eric has had some pretty good harvests, and our summers are tending to be less wet and hotter than they used to be.”
“Being able to grow different wheat varietals on the Island and then bake with them will shrink the process and the cycle, so you don’t have to go to eastern Washington. You can get wheat and food made with it right here on the Island. And then, if we can get other bakeries or restaurants to use it, that would also be wonderful.”
Jordan chimes in, “I feel like this year, we have kind of an informal study, starting with the grain-growing, because there is wheat growing on more of a highland kind of arid area, Jen Keller is growing Purple wheat for Pacific Crest, which is just starting to head, in what’s more of a wetland area.
“Even down by Maury Marine Park, in a drier hotter area, it’s interesting to see what parts of the Island will produce more and be able to use that information to influence where we want to grow. Is it asking more people on Wax Orchard to start growing on their land, and finding a farmer who’s willing to manage all that? Or is it plugging a Paradise Valley farmer and finding that the hilly wetland areas are better?”
“And wheat is not the only grain.” Thomas points out. “Rye is a super nutrient-rich grain and got Europe through many of the cold thousand years. It can grow in many places where wheat may not tolerate. Quinoa also grows very well here.”
So how can an Islander help support grain-growing on Vashon?
Thomas answers, “The most effective direct support right now is a monetary gift to VIGA or the grain-growing aspect of the Production Committee within VIGA.”
Another important way is to make land available to a farmer.
“A big problem on the Island is land use. It is difficult to try to attract farmers to the island when land is unaffordable, as well as the cost of living being unsustainable. It is heartbreaking to see a farmer who doesn’t own land have to stop farming because the land is sold. So, stable land use is necessary.”
Another way is through purchase. “When you see the local farms that are growing it, or, once the mill is operating, by buying the flour perhaps, or by supporting places that use the Island-grown flour.” Support, donation, and land access are all ways to encourage Island grain-growing, and thus Island resilience.
In Part 4 we return to the bakery, where we discuss Fernhorn’s current projects, and conclude the series.
For a list of where to purchase bread on-Island, or to order loaves online, visit Fernhorn Bakery at https://fernhornbakery.com/. You can also purchase Solidarity Loaves – gifts of bread for someone in need. See the website for details. Visit Fernhorn Bakery on Saturdays at the VIGA Farmers Market.
