By Jane Valencia
Our conversation with Thomas Vroom and Jordan Ashley Beck of Fernhorn Bakery has ranged through many topics. From the origin of their bakery, to concerns regarding commodity wheat, to benefits and connection with the exciting prospects of Vashon grown-grains and possibilities for strengthening Island resilience, we return to where Fernhorn Bakery is now as a business, and how they hope to grow.
A surprise in growing the business has been around educating the public.
”When we first started the bakery,” Jordan says, ”we had this sense, we’re making bread and bread feeds people, and that feels good. But as the business has grown, and especially including the Vashon Farmer’s Market and having all the interface with our customers, we have education opportunities that I didn’t anticipate being part of our business.
”We get to illuminate some of these areas that we as a society don’t have a lot of common knowledge about, such as why people have so much gluten intolerance, or even that grains can be grown on this side of the Cascades or on the Island. There’s a lot interesting new information that is so enjoyable to relate to people.”
Sharing information extends to sharing relationships. In our discussion of Washington-grown wheat in Part 2 of this series, we mentioned Chimacum Grainery. At the Farmers Market, Fernhorn Bakery sells Chimacum Grainery’s pancake mix, which is made with the Grainery’s spelt flour.
”Customers have the opportunity to take home grain and make something with it,” Jordan says. ”They come back and tell me, ‘That was amazing. It wasn’t like Bisquick – this was incredible.’ And now they have their own relationship with Chimacum. So these little relationships, these bits of information we’re giving to people – that’s been really exciting.”
For Thomas and Jordan, fostering connections between customers and local growers and food producers, and having partnerships where their bread is sold in farm stands, benefits the Island in longer-term ways.
Jordan explains: ”Maybe somebody stops because they see a sign for bread, but then they realize, now that I’m here for bread, what else is here? And they pick up vegetables. Or it’s the other way around: People are stopping in their favorite farm stand, and then are introduced to Fernhorn, and now they’re buying bread. There’s a reciprocal nature to that, and also a continuous bolstering of our food economy that, hopefully, one day will be more than charming and be sustenance for more of us.”
Fernhorn Bakery’s expansion into a larger baking space opens possibilities.
”We’re not totally sure what it’s all going to look like,” says Jordan. ”We’re looking forward to being able to support an Islander through employment, and being able to reach more markets we’ve been in contact with. We anticipate that we’ll be able to meet Island demand within the year. And as long as Islanders keep liking bread, we’ll keep making it.
”That is my favorite part of dropping off at Thriftway. It’s always a surprise interaction where I’ll be stocking the bread, and someone says, ‘Oh, I just love your bread.’ It’s a little bit of feedback that let’s us know we’re doing it right. We’re feeding people, and they are enthusiastic about the bread.”
”Another aspect of our business involves reach,” Thomas says. ”Go to a grocery store, and the average price of anything is $7. It’s ridiculous that food is an item that, if you can afford it, you can eat well and have nutritious food, but if not, then you get to eat crap. That causes a whole list of health concerns. And that’s hard.”
Fernhorn Bakery contributes in several ways to providing bread to those who can’t afford theirs. One is by way of their Solidarity Loaf. You can make a financial contribution on their website, which covers a loaf for someone in need. For the last couple years, Fernhorn has done an occasional big bake exclusively for the Vashon Food Bank, which is partly supported by Solidarity Loaves.
”Our other way of trying to make some of the loaves more accessible,” says Jordan, ”is with our ‘Sandwich Loaf, under the Approachable Loaf Program through the WSU Breadlab, which aims to make more nutrient-dense bread available to more folks in a way that is approachable, familiar.”
What is the Approachable Loaf Program? WSU has a specific set of guidelines and a mission to get people more familiar with this program: “The Approachable Loaf is tin-baked and sliced, contains no more than seven ingredients and no non-food. It is at least 60-100% whole wheat.”
Jordan continues, ”We wanted folks who aren’t familiar with the robust flavor of whole grains, and the nutrient availability of naturally levained breads, to have something that wasn’t a far cry from what they were used to. And it tastes pretty fantastic too.
”It is is on a sliding scale. You pay what you can, or if you can afford more, you can also subsidize somebody else’s loaf. We’re trying to do more of that. We hope that people have access to EBT from the state, but at least for the Farmer’s Market and online sales, that’s one way we’re trying to address the inequity. We also accept VIGA Farm Bucks, which have been tremendously helpful for folks.”
From a desire to provide delicious bread to their family, to growing a business that offers excellent breads, to expanding rings of community, Fernhorn Bakery’s story is a quintessential Island tale. Interwoven with values of resilience, accessibility, and personal connection, is a commitment to using wholesome Washington-grown grains, and sharing their love of what they offer. We hope you have enjoyed this series.
For a list of where to purchase Fernhorn bread on-Island or to order loaves online, visit Fernhorn Bakery at https://fernhornbakery.com. You can also purchase Solidarity Loaves – gifts of bread for someone in need. See the website for details.
Visit Fernhorn Bakery on Saturdays at the VIGA Farmers Market.
