By Cynthia Sadurni
This article is dedicated to the memory of my brother Jaime Sadurni, who placed the most beautiful ofrendas.
As soon as the autumn days arrive, and the trees turn into beautiful colors, the light begins to change, becomes angled, perhaps even brighter, a blaze before the colder days to come. It immediately takes my mind to Día de Muertos, Day of the Dead, one of the most colorful and beautiful Mexican traditions. It is a day steeped in remembrance and symbolism, perhaps one of the richest examples of the seamless blend of Mexico’s prehispanic past with the spirituality of the Catholic faith brought by the Spanish.
First and foremost, Día de Muertos is a celebration of life, an opportunity to look back at memories and shared moments with our loved ones, as we set the table for the souls of our dead and invite them back into our homes. I thought that I could share a little of the meaning and significance of the elements that you can find on the ofrendas, the altars set to commemorate our loved ones that have gone before us.
This is knowledge that was passed on to me growing up, and it is my hope that it will inspire you to look beyond the plethora of sugar skulls and decorated skeletons that have begun to populate the stores in preparation for Halloween (also a day full of ancient lore, but that is a story for another time) and see them in a different light.
There is much love invested in preparing the altar. It is for me, a time to reminisce about my loved ones that have gone before me, a time for healing and remembering that death is a part of life, another step in our journey.
It is the belief that, during the first two days of the month of November, the dead are allowed to return to our plane of existence and feast on the food left for them at the altars. The first of November is dedicated to the souls of children and the second for adults. Altars are traditionally set on October 28 and are taken down on the evening of November 3. In recent years, it has become customary to honor our animal companions as well, on October 27.
Here are some of the elements that must be included in the ofrenda:
Salt: It is meant to purify the souls on their journey.
Water: It is included to satisfy the thirst of the departed. It is also one of the four elements, and the source of all life.
Cempasuchil flowers (Mexican Marigolds): Their colors are reminiscent of the sun, and it is this, along with their perfume, that helps to guide the souls to the altar. It represents the earth element.
Votive candles: They also guide souls on their journey, and it is another of the four elements, fire.
Papel picado: It represents the air element, and it adds color to the altar.
Copal incense: It cleanses and purifies the space dedicated to the altar.
White tablecloth: It represents purity and also creates a safe space for the souls of the departed to enter safely.
It is customary to include sugar skulls, beautifully decorated with flowers and the name of the departed. Clay ones are also included, along with figurines of skeletons dressed in traditional clothing, known as Catrinas (female) and Catrines (male). A cross is always included, whether made of flowers, clay, metal, or wood. Of course, the photos of loved ones who are being remembered are set in the place of honor. Also, you may put other elements that the members being honored enjoyed in life, like a favorite object.
Food also plays a very important role, as the favorite dishes and desserts of our departed are set on the altar for them to feast on. It is believed that the souls partake of the essence of the food that is offered; thus, the flavor of the dishes is greatly diminished or is completely gone after this day passes. While some believe that the food should not be eaten after being taken down from the altar, other families will enjoy it after the return of the souls of the departed to the world beyond.
Amongst the foods set on the ofrenda, pan de muerto is always present. If you like to bake, I invite you to look for the recipe online. It is delicious! There are many traditional dishes served on the altars, chicken in mole sauce, refried beans, rice, but I would like to share with you my mom’s recipe for candied pumpkin, or calabaza en tacha. It is very easy to make and the ingredients are easy to find. I would also like to invite you to be curious and do a search online. There are many great resources to learn more about the beautiful and ancient traditions of Día de Muertos.
Calabaza en Tacha (Candied Pumpkin)
Ingredients
- 1 medium pumpkin (the orange kind used for pie works; you may use the variety you prefer, but I do recommend using one with thicker skin)
- 3 to 4 cones of piloncillo (this can be found in most Mexican stores; it is basically raw cane sugar shaped like a cone)
- 1 or 2 cinnamon sticks (optional)
- 5 cloves (optional)
- Mexican crema for serving (you can easily make your own with 2 parts sour cream or crème fraiche and 1 part milk; whisked thoroughly until smooth, it will have a thick yet liquid consistency).
You will need a dutch oven and a steamer basket.
Instructions
Start by crumbling the piloncillo. If it is hard to do this, you can use a cheese grater. Set it aside. Cut your pumpkin in half, then take out all the seeds and pulp, leaving the flesh as free of strings as possible. Cut each pumpkin piece in half again, then proceed to cut into thick wedges.
In a large dutch oven, set the steamer basket on the bottom. Start by placing a layer of pumpkin, flesh side up, and generously sprinkle with a thick layer of piloncillo. Place another layer of pumpkin, this time flesh side down, so that it is face-to-face with the previous layer. Sprinkle piloncillo. Add another layer, flesh side up, add piloncillo, proceed with the same process until you have used the whole pumpkin.
Add any extra piloncillo. Add about ½ inch of water, then cover and simmer at low heat until all the piloncillo has dissolved, the pumpkin is soft, and the liquid has turned into a rich syrup. It is very important not to use too much liquid at first, since pumpkin does shed a lot of water during the cooking process. Cooking times will vary depending on the size and variety of pumpkin used.
Let it cool to room temperature, dish and serve with a generous amount of the syrup, and drizzled with crema. Enjoy!
